THE NEW JAPAN,

This modest and unassuming Japanese restaurant has friendly and fast service, dependably delicate tempura and a menu varied enough for repeat visits. A highlight among the offerings is the Sunday sushi combo ""a platter of raw tuna and squid slices, cured salmon, cooked octopus, crabstick and shredded omelet, a tuna roll and a California roll ($10.75). The usual dinner menu consists of many seafood options, including shrimp and fish tempura, and shrimp curry. The reasonable prices keep New Japan packed most weekend nights. Lunchtime also finds harried downtown workers seeking respite in the quiet surroundings.